Custom DIY Sauna Building Guide: Materials & Techniques

Building your own custom sauna is one of the most rewarding ways to create a private wellness space at home. It gives you control over the layout, materials, heater, seating, lighting, and overall experience.

But a sauna is not just a small wood-lined room with a heater.

A well-built sauna needs the right layout, proper insulation, moisture control, safe electrical planning, good ventilation, and skin-friendly materials that can handle high heat over time. Getting those details right is what separates a sauna that simply gets hot from one that feels comfortable, efficient, and built to last.

This guide walks through the essential materials and construction techniques for a custom DIY sauna, including layout planning, wall assembly, wood selection, bench design, ventilation, heater sizing, and finishing details.

Whether you are converting a spare room, building into a basement, finishing a garage corner, or planning an outdoor sauna, the same principle applies:

Plan carefully. Build with the right materials. Keep the sauna simple, safe, and comfortable.

Why Build a Custom DIY Sauna?

A custom DIY sauna gives you flexibility that a prebuilt sauna may not. You can work within an existing room, adapt to unusual dimensions, choose your preferred wood, and design the interior around how you want to use the space.

Common areas for sauna conversions include:

• Spare rooms

• Basements

• Garages

• Attics

• Bathrooms

• Pool houses

• Sheds or detached outdoor structures

• Unused corners of larger rooms

A custom build can also make sense when your space has unusual features, such as sloped ceilings, narrow walls, existing windows, or limited square footage.

With the right sauna materials, many experienced DIYers, builders, and carpenters can create a finished sauna that feels intentional, efficient, and deeply restorative.

How to Plan Your Custom DIY Sauna Layout

Smart planning is the foundation of a successful sauna build. Before choosing wood or ordering a heater, start by understanding the room.

Measure the space carefully and sketch the layout to scale. Include fixed features like:

• Existing walls

• Doorways

• Windows

• Ceiling height

• Roof slopes

• Floor drains

• Electrical access

• Nearby ventilation

• Obstacles or structural elements

A clear plan helps you avoid common mistakes, such as choosing a heater that does not fit, placing benches too low, or forgetting to allow for the thickness of wall cladding.

Basic Sauna Layout Guidelines

A comfortable home sauna usually works best when the layout stays close to square rather than long and narrow. A more balanced footprint helps distribute heat evenly and makes bench placement easier.

Use these general layout guidelines as a starting point:

Because heat rises, ceiling height matters. A ceiling around 7 feet helps keep the hottest air closer to the upper bench, where bathers sit. If the ceiling is too tall, heat can collect overhead instead of around the body.

If your existing room has a higher ceiling, it is often possible to frame down the ceiling to a better sauna height.

Sauna Layout Examples

Choosing the Right Sauna Floor Plan

The best sauna floor plan depends on the space available and how you want to use the sauna.

Some people want a compact daily-use sauna for one or two people. Others want a larger sauna with room to stretch out, entertain guests, or create a full hot-cold recovery routine.

Below are the most common layout types.

Corner Sauna Layout

A corner sauna is ideal when you are working with limited space.

It fits neatly into an unused corner of a basement, bathroom, garage, or wellness room. This layout usually works best for one to two users and may include a single bench or compact two-tier bench system.

Best for:

• Small homes

• Basement corners

• Garage conversions

• One to two users

• Efficient heating

Planning tip: Keep the heater close to the door or in a front corner so the bench area remains open and comfortable.

Rectangular Sauna Layout

A rectangular sauna is one of the most common and flexible options. It allows benches along one long wall or an L-shaped bench configuration if the room is wide enough.

Best for:

• Family use

• Multiple bench levels

• Reclining benches

• Longer rooms

• Traditional sauna layouts

Planning tip: Avoid making the room too long and narrow. If the sauna becomes too tunnel-like, heat distribution and seating comfort can suffer.

L-Shaped Sauna Layout

An L-shaped layout is useful when you want to maximize seating or work around an unusual footprint.

It can create a more social sauna experience because users are not all seated in a straight line.

Best for:

• Wider saunas

• Multiple users

• Odd-shaped spaces

• Flexible seating

• Families or entertaining

Planning tip: Make sure the inside corner does not interfere with foot space, heater clearances, or airflow.

Single-Bench Sauna Layout

A single-bench sauna is simple and efficient, especially in narrow rooms. If you only have space for one bench, consider raising the bench higher and adding a footrest or raised platform.

This helps the user sit in the hotter zone of the sauna instead of staying too close to the cooler floor area.

Best for:

• Narrow spaces

• One to two users

• Minimal builds

• Lower material costs

Planning tip: A single bench should still be high enough to deliver a true sauna experience. Low seating may feel underwhelming because the hottest air remains above the user.

Sauna Ceiling Height and Heat Placement

Ceiling height is one of the most overlooked parts of sauna planning.

In a traditional sauna, the upper part of the room is significantly warmer than the lower part. That is why bench height and ceiling height must work together.

A practical target is:

• Lower bench: around 20 inches from the floor

• Upper bench: around 40 inches from the floor

• Finished ceiling: around 7 feet high

This places the upper bench in a better heat zone while still leaving enough headroom for comfort.

Essential Sauna Construction Materials

A sauna has to withstand heat, moisture, and repeated temperature changes. The right materials are essential for comfort, safety, and durability.

The core materials for a custom DIY sauna include:

1. Framing lumber

2. Insulation

3. Aluminum foil vapor barrier

4. Interior sauna wood paneling

5. Exterior wall finish

6. Sauna door

7. Bench wood

8. Fasteners

9. Heater and controls

10. Ventilation components

11. Lighting and accessories

Each material plays a role in how the sauna performs.

Best Wood Types for Sauna Interiors

Interior wood is one of the most important choices in a sauna build. It affects how the room looks, how it smells, how it feels against skin, and how well the sauna holds up over time.

Sauna wood needs to tolerate high temperatures and changing humidity without excessive warping, cracking, resin release, or splintering.

Avoid ordinary tongue-and-groove paneling from a general lumber aisle unless it is specifically suitable for sauna use. Standard wood may move, shrink, separate, or release resin when exposed to sauna temperatures.

Sauna Wood Comparison Table

For surfaces that touch skin, choose smooth, low-resin, knot-free wood whenever possible. Benches, backrests, and armrests should feel comfortable even at high temperatures.

Should Sauna Wood Be Treated?

Interior sauna paneling should generally be left unfinished.

Avoid applying typical stains, paints, varnishes, or preservatives inside the hot room unless the product is specifically rated for sauna use. Many standard coatings can release odors or fumes when heated.

For most sauna interiors, the best finish is simple:

• Quality sauna-grade wood

• Smooth sanding where needed

• No unnecessary surface coating

• Regular cleaning and drying after use

Framing a DIY Sauna

Most custom saunas use standard 2x4 framing, similar to interior house walls.

Studs are commonly spaced 16 inches on center. This makes insulation easier to install and creates a predictable structure for attaching battens, cladding, benches, and accessories.

Before closing the walls, add blocking or nailers anywhere you will need extra support.

Add blocking for:

• Upper benches

• Lower benches

• Backrests

• Heater mounting

• Heater guardrails

• Lighting

• Salt panels

• Speakers

• Grab rails

• Towel hooks or accessories

This step is easy during framing and difficult to fix later.

Pressure-Treated Lumber vs. Thermally Modified Sauna Wood

Not all “treated” wood is the same.

For sauna construction, it is important to understand the difference between pressure-treated lumber and thermally modified wood.

Pressure-treated lumber

Pressure-treated lumber is wood that has been chemically treated to resist rot, insects, and moisture. It is commonly used for decks, outdoor framing, fence posts, and areas where wood may contact the ground or concrete.

Inside the heated sauna envelope, pressure-treated lumber should generally be avoided. When exposed to sauna temperatures, chemically treated wood may create unwanted odors and is not ideal for interior sauna use.

A common exception is the bottom plate or footer when framing directly over concrete. In that case, pressure-treated lumber may help prevent rot where the framing contacts the slab.

Thermally modified wood

Thermally modified wood is different. Instead of being chemically treated, it is modified through a controlled heat and steam process. This changes the structure of the wood, helping improve dimensional stability and resistance to moisture-related movement.

That makes thermally modified wood, such as Thermo-Aspen, especially well suited for sauna interiors.

Thermally modified sauna wood is often used for:

• Interior wall paneling

• Ceiling cladding

• Benches

• Backrests

• Trim

• Premium sauna finishes

Because it is designed to handle heat and humidity, thermally modified wood can be a strong choice for a custom DIY sauna, especially when you want a more stable, refined, and long-lasting interior material.

Simple rule of thumb

For the heated sauna interior, choose sauna-grade wood designed for high temperatures. Save pressure-treated lumber for structural areas where moisture protection is needed and where it will not be exposed directly to sauna heat.

Sauna Insulation: What to Use

Good insulation helps the sauna heat efficiently and hold temperature consistently.

Mineral wool insulation, often sold as Rockwool, is one of the best choices for sauna walls and ceilings because it is:

• Fire-resistant

• Water-resistant

• Odorless

• Dimensionally stable

• Good at retaining heat

• Easier to fit snugly between studs

• Less irritating than fiberglass for many installers

Fiberglass insulation can work, but mineral wool is often preferred for sauna construction.

Avoid leaving gaps in the insulation. Gaps create cold spots, reduce efficiency, and can increase condensation risk.

Insulation Best Practices

Use this basic checklist:

1. Install insulation snugly between studs and ceiling joists.

2. Do not compress insulation more than necessary.

3. Avoid gaps around corners, blocking, and openings.

4. Support ceiling insulation with string or strapping if needed.

5. Keep the inner face of the insulation flush with the framing.

6. Install the vapor barrier after insulation is in place.

Sauna Vapor Barrier: Why It Matters

A sauna creates heat and moisture. Without a proper vapor barrier, moisture can migrate into the wall cavity, reach insulation or framing, and contribute to mold, rot, or long-term damage.

For sauna interiors, an aluminum foil vapor barrier is commonly used on the warm side of the insulation, directly behind the interior cladding system.

The vapor barrier should cover:

• Walls

• Ceiling

• Corners

• Around door openings

• Around window openings

• Around penetrations for lights, wiring, controls, and vents

Seams should be taped with aluminum foil tape.

Vapor Barrier Installation Tips

Plastic housewrap is not ideal inside a sauna because it may produce unpleasant odors when heated. Aluminum foil vapor barrier is the better choice for the hot room assembly.

Sauna Wall and Ceiling Assembly

A properly built sauna wall is layered to manage heat, moisture, structure, and appearance.

The typical wall and ceiling assembly includes:

1. Interior sauna wood paneling

2. Air gap or battens

3. Aluminum foil vapor barrier

4. Framing with insulation

5. Exterior wall finish

This system helps protect the wall cavity while allowing the interior cladding to perform properly.

How to Install Sauna Interior Cladding

Interior cladding should be installed carefully so it looks clean and allows for normal wood movement.

A common sequence is:

1. Install insulation between the framing members.

2. Staple aluminum foil vapor barrier over the insulated walls and ceiling.

3. Tape all seams with aluminum foil tape.

4. Install battens or furring strips over the vapor barrier.

5. Install ceiling boards first.

6. Install wall boards after the ceiling is complete.

7. Leave small expansion gaps at corners and transitions.

8. Cover gaps with trim or molding.

For horizontal wall cladding, battens are usually installed vertically over the studs. For vertical wall cladding, battens are usually installed horizontally.

Cladding Installation Tips

• Start with the ceiling before the walls.

• Keep boards level and check frequently.

• Use stainless steel or exterior-grade fasteners.

• Fasten through the tongue where possible to hide nails or staples.

• Avoid exposed metal fasteners where skin may touch.

• Do not use contact adhesives that may release fumes when heated.

• Use trim to finish inside corners cleanly.

A pneumatic stapler or finish nailer can make installation faster, but choose fasteners carefully. In a sauna, rust and exposed hot metal are both problems.

Sauna Doors and Windows

Doors and windows affect heat retention, ventilation, safety, and the overall feel of the room.

A glass door can make a small sauna feel more open, while a wood-framed door can create a more traditional look. Either way, the door should be designed for sauna use.

Sauna Door Best Practices

A gap under the door may sound counterintuitive, but it supports fresh air intake and helps the sauna ventilate properly.

Do not rely on a standard interior residential door unless it is suitable for sauna conditions. Heat and moisture can warp ordinary doors over time.

Sauna Window Planning

Sauna windows can make a sauna feel more open and connected to the outdoors, but they also increase heat loss.

If you include a window, choose double-pane or triple-pane glass when possible. Existing windows in a converted room should be evaluated carefully before building around them.

Keep in mind that glass is considered a cold surface. The more glass you add, the harder the heater has to work.

Other cold surfaces include:

• Tile

• Brick

• Stone

• Concrete

• Large glass doors

• Large windows

These surfaces should be included when calculating heater size.

Sauna Ventilation: Fresh Air, Better Heat, and Faster Drying

Ventilation is essential in a sauna. It supports fresh air, helps distribute heat, and allows the room to dry after use.

A sauna should not be completely sealed. Without airflow, the space can feel stale, heat may distribute poorly, and moisture may linger. Dedicated sauna vents can help with this. 

Basic Sauna Ventilation Layout

A good ventilation plan often includes:

1. Fresh air intake near the heater or through the gap under the door

2. Exhaust vent opposite the heater

3. Upper vent with a sliding cover for heat and moisture release

4. Lower vent under the benches to help pull warm air downward

5. Venting into the same room the sauna door opens into, when appropriate

Never vent sauna air into an enclosed wall or ceiling cavity. Moist air trapped inside a cavity can create mold and building damage.

Sauna Bench Design

Sauna benches determine how comfortable your sauna feels.

They also affect how hot the experience feels because seating height determines where the body sits within the heat zone.

A sauna bench should be:

• Strong

• Stable

• Smooth

• Comfortable against skin

• Free of sharp edges

• Built from sauna-safe wood

• Easy to clean

• Fastened securely

Sauna Bench Dimensions

These are guidelines, not strict rules. Your final bench plan should account for room size, ceiling height, heater clearances, and how many people will use the sauna.

One-Tier vs. Two-Tier Benches

One-Tier Bench

A one-tier bench works well in compact saunas. If using only one bench, it is usually better to raise it higher and include a footrest or raised floor section.

This helps the user sit closer to the heat zone.

Two-Tier Bench

A two-tier bench system is more traditional and gives users temperature options.

The upper bench is hotter. The lower bench can be used as a step, footrest, or cooler seating area.

Bench Wood Selection

Use clear, smooth sauna wood for benches and backrests.

Good options include:

• Aspen

• Thermo-aspen

• Alder

• Clear cedar

Avoid knotty wood on surfaces that touch skin. Knots can become hotter than the surrounding wood and may feel uncomfortable. Resin pockets can also become painful if they heat and release sap.

Bench Construction Tips

• Fasten from underneath when possible.

• Avoid exposed screws or nails on sitting surfaces.

• Round or soften edges for comfort.

• Leave small gaps between boards for airflow.

• Add crossmembers for strength.

• Avoid supports that trap moisture at the floor.

• Use rubber or plastic feet if bench supports touch the floor.

• Make benches removable if easy cleaning is a priority.

Backrests, Skirts, Guardrails, and Duckboards

The details around the benches make the sauna feel more finished and comfortable.

Backrests

Backrests should be made from the same skin-friendly bench wood. A slight recline creates a more natural seating position.

Backrests also prevent users from leaning directly against hot wall boards.

Bench Skirts or Valances

Bench skirts are vertical boards installed between upper and lower benches. They create a more finished look and can help the sauna feel more built-in.

Use sauna bench wood or matching interior wood so the surfaces remain comfortable and consistent.

Heater Guardrails

A heater guardrail helps prevent accidental contact with the hot heater.

This is especially important if children, guests, or multiple people will use the sauna.

Always follow the heater manufacturer’s required safety clearances when designing the guardrail. Do not guess. The clearances are part of safe heater installation.

Duckboards and Sauna Flooring

The sauna floor should be able to handle water.

Suitable base flooring may include:

• Concrete

• Tile

• Properly protected wood floor assemblies

• Other water-tolerant surfaces approved for the location

Duckboards or removable floor mats can be added over the walking area to provide a warmer, more comfortable surface underfoot.

Duckboards are usually only needed in the standing and walking area, not under the benches.

Sauna Heater Selection and Sizing

The heater is one of the most important decisions in a custom sauna build. A sauna heater that is too small may struggle to reach temperature. A heater that is too large may cycle too aggressively and create uneven performance.

The best heater depends on:

• Sauna volume

• Insulation quality

• Ceiling height

• Glass area

• Cold surface area

• Indoor vs. outdoor location

• Preferred heat style

• Electrical availability

• Local code requirements

  
  

How to Calculate Sauna Room Volume

Start with the basic room volume: Room Volume = Length × Width × Height

Example:

A 6' x 5' x 7' sauna has a volume of: 6 × 5 × 7 = 210 cubic feet

Add for Cold Surfaces

Cold surfaces absorb heat and increase heater demand.

Common cold surfaces include:

• Glass

• Tile

• Brick

• Stone

• Concrete

A practical adjustment is to add extra cubic feet for cold surface area.

Cold Surface Adder = Total Cold Surface Area × 2

Example:

Then calculate:

Total Heater Sizing Volume = Room Volume + Cold Surface Adder

Using the example above: 210 + 42 = 252 cubic feet

Use that adjusted volume when comparing heater models.

Electric, Wood-Burning, or Infrared?

Different heater types create different sauna experiences.

For a traditional sauna, electric and wood-burning heaters are the most common choices.

Sauna Heater Safety Considerations

Heater installation should always follow the manufacturer’s manual and local code.

Important safety details include:

• Required wall clearances

• Required bench clearances

• Guardrail requirements

• Electrical circuit requirements

• Control placement

• Sensor placement

• Ventilation

• Floor protection, if required

• Chimney and combustion air for wood-burning heaters

For electric heaters, use a licensed electrician. Sauna heaters often require dedicated circuits and proper wiring. Incorrect installation can create fire, shock, and warranty issues.

Electrical Planning for a DIY Sauna

Electrical planning should happen before insulation, vapor barrier, and cladding are installed.

Plan wiring for:

• Heater

• Heater control panel

• Temperature sensor

• Lighting

• Light switch

• LED strips or valance lighting

• Speakers

• Bluetooth amplifier

• Salt wall lighting

• Exterior controls, if applicable

Most electrical components should be sauna-rated or installed outside the hot room where required.

Electrical Safety Notes

• Do not place standard electronics high on sauna walls.

• Keep amplifiers and non-sauna-rated controls outside the hot room.

• Use heat-rated lighting where needed.

• Follow all manufacturer instructions.

• Hire a licensed electrician for heater wiring and code-required electrical work.

This is not an area to improvise.

Sauna Lighting Ideas

Sauna lighting should feel calm, warm, and indirect.

Bright overhead lighting can make a sauna feel harsh. Softer lighting placed under benches, behind backrests, or along a wall creates a more premium, relaxing atmosphere.

Good sauna lighting options include:

• Under-bench LED strips

• Backrest lighting

• Wall valance lighting

• Low-profile sauna-rated fixtures

• Chromatherapy lighting

• Backlit salt panels

Lighting Placement Tips

Lighting should be rated for the environment and kept away from locations that exceed the product’s heat limits.

Audio and Wellness Accessories

Sauna accessories should support the experience without cluttering the room.

Popular options include:

• Sauna-rated speakers

• Bluetooth amplifier installed outside the sauna

• Himalayan salt panels

• Aromatherapy holders

• Thermometer and hygrometer

• Sand timer

• Bucket and ladle

• Robe hooks outside the sauna

• Headrests

• Backrests

• Floor duckboards

Keep the inside of the sauna simple. The best sauna interiors feel calm, open, and easy to maintain.

Sauna Audio Tips

If adding audio, use speakers designed for heat and moisture. Place speakers lower on the wall when possible, since temperatures are cooler closer to the floor.

A Bluetooth amplifier should usually be installed outside the sauna. Speaker wire can run into the sauna before insulation and cladding are installed.

Himalayan Salt Panels

Himalayan salt panels can add a warm, spa-like focal point to the room. When backlit, they create a soft amber glow that makes the sauna feel more relaxing and visually complete.

For salt features:

• Use secure mounting methods.

• Choose low-heat lighting.

• Keep electrical components properly rated.

• Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

• Avoid unsupported health claims unless backed by qualified sources.

Salt panels are best treated as an ambiance and design upgrade.

Outdoor Sauna Construction Considerations

Outdoor saunas require additional planning because they are exposed to weather.

The sauna structure should be built like a durable outdoor building, with proper attention to the roof, exterior siding, drainage, and weather protection.

Outdoor Sauna Basics

Plan for:

• Weather-resistant exterior siding

• Exterior housewrap or weather barrier

• Sloped roof

• Roofing material suitable for your climate

• Snow load, where applicable

• Rain runoff

• Proper foundation or base

• Drainage around the structure

• Protected entry area

• Exterior-rated electrical work

A front roof overhang is a smart addition. Ideally, it should extend far enough to shelter the sauna door swing and entry area.

Outdoor Sauna Roof Options

Common roofing materials include:

• Asphalt shingles

• Metal roofing

• Cedar shakes

• Other code-approved roofing materials

The roof should shed water effectively and be appropriate for the local climate.

Recommended DIY Sauna Build Sequence

Here is a practical construction sequence for a custom DIY sauna.

Step 1: Plan the Layout

Measure the room and sketch your layout. Decide where the heater, benches, door, windows, vents, and lights will go.

Step 2: Confirm Heater Requirements

Choose the heater early so you can plan clearances, electrical needs, control placement, and ventilation.

Step 3: Frame the Sauna

Use standard 2x4 framing. Add blocking for benches, heater, backrests, lights, and accessories.

Step 4: Rough In Electrical

Run wiring for the heater, controls, sensor, lights, speakers, and accessories before insulation goes in.

Step 5: Install Insulation

Fit mineral wool insulation snugly between studs and ceiling joists.

Step 6: Install Vapor Barrier

Staple aluminum foil vapor barrier over the walls and ceiling. Tape all seams with aluminum foil tape.

Step 7: Install Battens

Install battens over the vapor barrier to create a small air gap behind the cladding.

Step 8: Install Interior Cladding

Install ceiling boards first, then wall boards. Use stainless steel or exterior-grade fasteners.

Step 9: Install Door and Windows

Install the sauna door level, plumb, and square. Confirm outward swing and leave the proper bottom gap for airflow.

Step 10: Build Benches and Backrests

Install benches securely using sauna-safe wood. Hide fasteners wherever possible.

Step 11: Install Heater and Guardrail

Follow manufacturer's clearances exactly. Use a licensed electrician for electric heater connections.

Step 12: Add Lighting and Accessories

Install sauna-rated lighting, speakers, salt panels, thermometer, hygrometer, and other finishing details.

Step 13: Test and Inspect

Before regular use, test ventilation, heater operation, lighting, controls, door swing, and bench stability.

Common DIY Sauna Mistakes to Avoid

A custom sauna does not need to be complicated, but a few mistakes can lead to comfort, safety, or durability problems.

Avoid these common issues:

Good planning prevents most of these issues before they happen.

Sauna Maintenance Tips

A well-built sauna is relatively easy to maintain. The key is to let it dry properly and clean it gently.

After Each Use

• Leave the door open after the session.

• Open vents to help the sauna dry.

• Wipe up standing water.

• Remove wet towels.

• Let benches air out.

Regular Cleaning

Use mild soap and water when needed. Avoid harsh chemicals, heavy detergents, or strong cleaners that can absorb into the wood or create odors when heated.

For benches:

• Wipe surfaces regularly.

• Lightly sand stubborn marks if needed.

• Avoid sealing with non-sauna-rated finishes.

• Keep surfaces dry between uses.

Seasonal Inspection

A few times per year, check:

• Bench stability

• Fasteners

• Heater stones

• Heater guardrail

• Door operation

• Vent covers

• Lighting

• Signs of moisture damage

• Cracks, splinters, or sharp edges

• Exterior weatherproofing for outdoor saunas

Small maintenance habits help preserve the sauna’s comfort and appearance over time.

Custom DIY Sauna Materials Checklist

Use this checklist as a starting point when planning your material order.

Final Thoughts: Build the Sauna Around the Experience

A custom DIY sauna is more than a construction project. It is a space for slowing down, resetting, and building a routine that supports recovery and well-being.

The best saunas are simple, warm, and carefully planned. They use the right wood. They control moisture. They place benches where the heat feels best. They ventilate properly. They make every session feel easy to step into.

When you are planning your build, focus on the details that shape the daily experience:

• A comfortable layout

• A proper ceiling height

• Smooth bench materials

• Clean airflow

• Soft lighting

• The right heater

• Materials designed for sauna conditions

The right materials make the difference between a sauna that looks finished and a sauna that feels right for years.

Explore our collection of custom DIY sauna materials to find sauna wood, vapor barrier, doors, heaters, lighting, bench materials, and accessories for your build.